Our Personal Odyssey

Ten months, seven countries, one founder and a 360 camera. The working travel diary behind Vastura Travel: what things cost, where we stayed, and what the road actually looks like.

Currently: Guatemala — Leg 2 of 10

El Salvador08/26Guatemala10/26Honduras — Roatán11/26Belize11/26Honduras — mainland12/26Nicaragua01/27Costa Rica02/27PanamasoonPerusoonBrazil (option)soon

Follow the journey: RSS feed · or email robert@vastura.ca and we’ll let you know when new entries publish.

Travel & getting around

Our Personal Odyssey - Leaving Moosomin

2026-09-03

A midnight FlixBus out of a prairie town, the best airport breakfast in years, a cancelled connection, and the easiest border of the trip.

Notes from the road

Our Personal Odyssey - Leaving Moosomin

2026-09-03

A midnight FlixBus out of a prairie town, the best airport breakfast in years, a cancelled connection, and the easiest border of the trip.

All entries

Review: Stella's, Winnipeg Richardson Airport

2026-09-03

First review of the expedition. A French omelette worth $29 at an airport, a server who did the right thing, and a break-coverage gap that nearly cost the last impression.

Our Personal Odyssey - Leaving Moosomin

2026-09-03

A midnight FlixBus out of a prairie town, the best airport breakfast in years, a cancelled connection, and the easiest border of the trip.

Photos & video

Every photo and clip from the El Salvador entries. Tap one to read the day it came from.

A young basilisk on the wet black sand.
A young basilisk on the wet black sand.
Grandma and her granddaughter at the blue table.
Grandma and her granddaughter at the blue table.
Chicken buses lined up in La Libertad.
Chicken buses lined up in La Libertad.
A bright-green iguana in the yard tree after a night of rain.
A bright-green iguana in the yard tree after a night of rain.
Halloween land crab under the patio wall pipe after the storm.
Halloween land crab under the patio wall pipe after the storm.
A soaked tacuazin on the block wall.
A soaked tacuazin on the block wall.
The same opossum, still waiting out the rain.
The same opossum, still waiting out the rain.
Riders gathering on a dirt lane for the cabalgata, seen over my horse's ears.
Riders gathering on a dirt lane for the cabalgata, seen over my horse's ears.
Late afternoon on the black sand.
Late afternoon on the black sand.
Grandma's: tin roof on cut poles, hammocks, the shop at the back, the motorbike in the shade.
Grandma's: tin roof on cut poles, hammocks, the shop at the back, the motorbike in the shade.
Fish pupusas with curtido and salsa, plastic bag over the plate, as always.
Fish pupusas with curtido and salsa, plastic bag over the plate, as always.
The blue table. Curtido in the good china; salsa in the mug.
The blue table. Curtido in the good china; salsa in the mug.
A neighbour at the blue table, in no hurry.
A neighbour at the blue table, in no hurry.
One lane of light at the far end. The tunnels between Mizata and Acajutla.
One lane of light at the far end. The tunnels between Mizata and Acajutla.
Leaving La Libertad. The Litoral climbs into the rock cuts and drops back to the sea.
Leaving La Libertad. The Litoral climbs into the rock cuts and drops back to the sea.
One lane of light at the far end. The tunnels between Mizata and Acajutla.
One lane of light at the far end. The tunnels between Mizata and Acajutla.
Acajutla. Follow the bus.
Acajutla. Follow the bus.
The residential grid that looks the same in every direction.
The residential grid that looks the same in every direction.
Back on the coast road, camera pointed exactly the wrong way for the ocean.
Back on the coast road, camera pointed exactly the wrong way for the ocean.
Twenty-five seconds of the point break from the lunch table.
Twenty-five seconds of the point break from the lunch table.
The first guest. Garrobo, on the wall, day four.
The first guest. Garrobo, on the wall, day four.
Yearling green iguana under the palm.
Yearling green iguana under the palm.
Almendro fruit. The tree over the rancho drops these on the roof all day.
Almendro fruit. The tree over the rancho drops these on the roof all day.
The terrace at lunch. That's the break the juniors are surfing this fortnight.
The terrace at lunch. That's the break the juniors are surfing this fortnight.
Shrimp and calamari rice, six dollars.
Shrimp and calamari rice, six dollars.
Pitahaya roja. No white centre. It stains everything.
Pitahaya roja. No white centre. It stains everything.
The receipt. Three pounds of strip is the big line.
The receipt. Three pounds of strip is the big line.
Casa de Playa to Playa Toluca, 43 seconds. Insta360 X4 Air + Ace Pro. Full 1080p: download
Casa de Playa to Playa Toluca, 43 seconds. Insta360 X4 Air + Ace Pro. Full 1080p: download
The lane. Right out of the gate and keep walking toward the noise.
The lane. Right out of the gate and keep walking toward the noise.
The cut through the fences. Palapas on the right, Pacific straight ahead.
The cut through the fences. Palapas on the right, Pacific straight ahead.
Playa Toluca, looking west. Nobody.
Playa Toluca, looking west. Nobody.
Shore break, from ankle height.
Shore break, from ankle height.
The beach as a tiny planet. That red dot is me.
The beach as a tiny planet. That red dot is me.
Back to the rancho.
Back to the rancho.
The lane out from the villa, from the dash camera. Roads in better shape than expected; traffic is the variable.
The lane out from the villa, from the dash camera. Roads in better shape than expected; traffic is the variable.
The highway goes under the canopy. The trees were here first and they still are.
The highway goes under the canopy. The trees were here first and they still are.
The rancho, shot from the middle of it with a 360 camera and folded into a tiny planet. Hammocks, the big tree, the bar at the back.
The rancho, shot from the middle of it with a 360 camera and folded into a tiny planet. Hammocks, the big tree, the bar at the back.
Morning under the tree. The hammocks are the living room.
Morning under the tree. The hammocks are the living room.

Accommodation

Our Personal Odyssey - The Villa

2026-09-03

First night at Playa Toluca: a party house in low season, a possum in the roof, Santa Ana coffee, and what seventy dollars of groceries actually buys.

Travel & getting around

Our Personal Odyssey - The Litoral road

2026-09-07

West along the coast road: rock cuts, surf towns, tunnels through the hills, and a wrong turn in Acajutla. Sixty-three seconds of dash footage, shot through a windshield I should have cleaned and graded twice.

Review: Radar Rent a Car, San Salvador

2026-09-03

A month in a 2022 Nissan Versa for $600, a handover that survived a cancelled flight, and one thing to check before you leave the lot.

Our Personal Odyssey - La Libertad

2026-09-03

The pier at Puerto de La Libertad, an eighteen-dollar lunch for two, imported beer cheaper than local, driving lessons from the traffic, and a thirteen-hour blackout.

Our Personal Odyssey - Leaving Moosomin

2026-09-03

A midnight FlixBus out of a prairie town, the best airport breakfast in years, a cancelled connection, and the easiest border of the trip.

Food & cost of living

Our Personal Odyssey - The library, and the last supper

2026-10-05

A San Salvador city tour built around the new National Library, then a last supper at Casa 43.

Our Personal Odyssey - Last week on the coast

2026-10-05

A grey day sends me east to Bahía de Jiquilisco, then lunch and evenings at Grandma's, a grocery run into La Libertad, and an iguana after the rain.

Our Personal Odyssey - A roof and three walls

2026-10-05

Ruins, a closed road, a hammock day and a gift of empanadas: a week of ordinary days on the El Salvador coast.

Our Personal Odyssey - Grandma's

2026-10-05

An unnamed family eatery and shop under the trees at Playa Toluca: four fish pupusas, two Cokes, five dollars, and the best meal in three weeks.

Our Personal Odyssey - The Litoral road

2026-09-07

West along the coast road: rock cuts, surf towns, tunnels through the hills, and a wrong turn in Acajutla. Sixty-three seconds of dash footage, shot through a windshield I should have cleaned and graded twice.

Our Personal Odyssey - Nine dinners for sixty-eight dollars

2026-09-04

A garrobo on the wall, a nine-dollar lunch over a point break, dragon fruit that tastes of something, three pounds of strip for the price of pork chops - and a lesson about letting people help.

Our Personal Odyssey - La Libertad

2026-09-03

The pier at Puerto de La Libertad, an eighteen-dollar lunch for two, imported beer cheaper than local, driving lessons from the traffic, and a thirteen-hour blackout.

Our Personal Odyssey - The Villa

2026-09-03

First night at Playa Toluca: a party house in low season, a possum in the roof, Santa Ana coffee, and what seventy dollars of groceries actually buys.

People & meetings

Our Personal Odyssey - Independence Day, on horseback

2026-10-05

Independence Day in Santa Isabel Ishuatán: a rented horse, a camera on the saddle, a cabalgata of dozens of riders and the ribbon races.

Our Personal Odyssey - Nine dinners for sixty-eight dollars

2026-09-04

A garrobo on the wall, a nine-dollar lunch over a point break, dragon fruit that tastes of something, three pounds of strip for the price of pork chops - and a lesson about letting people help.

Notes from the road

Our Personal Odyssey - Independence Day, on horseback

2026-10-05

Independence Day in Santa Isabel Ishuatán: a rented horse, a camera on the saddle, a cabalgata of dozens of riders and the ribbon races.

Our Personal Odyssey - Nine dinners for sixty-eight dollars

2026-09-04

A garrobo on the wall, a nine-dollar lunch over a point break, dragon fruit that tastes of something, three pounds of strip for the price of pork chops - and a lesson about letting people help.

Our Personal Odyssey - Leaving Moosomin

2026-09-03

A midnight FlixBus out of a prairie town, the best airport breakfast in years, a cancelled connection, and the easiest border of the trip.

All entries

Our Personal Odyssey - The library, and the last supper

2026-10-05

A San Salvador city tour built around the new National Library, then a last supper at Casa 43.

Our Personal Odyssey - Last week on the coast

2026-10-05

A grey day sends me east to Bahía de Jiquilisco, then lunch and evenings at Grandma's, a grocery run into La Libertad, and an iguana after the rain.

Our Personal Odyssey - Everyone trying to escape the rain

2026-10-05

A night of sustained thunder at Playa Toluca, and the land crab and opossum that came up onto the patio to get out of the rain.

Our Personal Odyssey - Independence Day, on horseback

2026-10-05

Independence Day in Santa Isabel Ishuatán: a rented horse, a camera on the saddle, a cabalgata of dozens of riders and the ribbon races.

Our Personal Odyssey - A roof and three walls

2026-10-05

Ruins, a closed road, a hammock day and a gift of empanadas: a week of ordinary days on the El Salvador coast.

Our Personal Odyssey - Grandma's

2026-10-05

An unnamed family eatery and shop under the trees at Playa Toluca: four fish pupusas, two Cokes, five dollars, and the best meal in three weeks.

Our Personal Odyssey - The Litoral road

2026-09-07

West along the coast road: rock cuts, surf towns, tunnels through the hills, and a wrong turn in Acajutla. Sixty-three seconds of dash footage, shot through a windshield I should have cleaned and graded twice.

Our Personal Odyssey - Nine dinners for sixty-eight dollars

2026-09-04

A garrobo on the wall, a nine-dollar lunch over a point break, dragon fruit that tastes of something, three pounds of strip for the price of pork chops - and a lesson about letting people help.

Review: Radar Rent a Car, San Salvador

2026-09-03

A month in a 2022 Nissan Versa for $600, a handover that survived a cancelled flight, and one thing to check before you leave the lot.

Our Personal Odyssey - The walk to the beach

2026-09-03

Eight minutes from the red gate to an empty black-sand beach on the Surf City coast. Forty seconds of video, shot on a chest camera and a 360.

Our Personal Odyssey - La Libertad

2026-09-03

The pier at Puerto de La Libertad, an eighteen-dollar lunch for two, imported beer cheaper than local, driving lessons from the traffic, and a thirteen-hour blackout.

Our Personal Odyssey - The Villa

2026-09-03

First night at Playa Toluca: a party house in low season, a possum in the roof, Santa Ana coffee, and what seventy dollars of groceries actually buys.

Our Personal Odyssey - Leaving Moosomin

2026-09-03

A midnight FlixBus out of a prairie town, the best airport breakfast in years, a cancelled connection, and the easiest border of the trip.

Photos & video

Every photo and clip from the Guatemala entries. Tap one to read the day it came from.

Accommodation

Review: Le Suisse Spa, Santa Lucía Milpas Altas — four nights in the hills above Antigua

2026-10-06

A real spa retreat with a front desk that would shame most five-star hotels, a room built for the mist, and a kitchen that is good when it cooks Guatemalan and ordinary when it doesn't.

Review: Le Suisse Spa, Santa Lucía Milpas Altas — ninety minutes with Lourdes

2026-10-05

A sports massage in the hills above Antigua that undid knots I had been carrying for twenty years.

Our Personal Odyssey - Black sand, red canoe

2026-10-05

A double-decker bus out of El Salvador, then black sand, horses, a mangrove canoe at sunset and a turtle hatchery at Monterrico.

Travel & getting around

Our Personal Odyssey - Black sand, red canoe

2026-10-05

A double-decker bus out of El Salvador, then black sand, horses, a mangrove canoe at sunset and a turtle hatchery at Monterrico.

Food & cost of living

Review: Le Suisse Spa, Santa Lucía Milpas Altas — four nights in the hills above Antigua

2026-10-06

A real spa retreat with a front desk that would shame most five-star hotels, a room built for the mist, and a kitchen that is good when it cooks Guatemalan and ordinary when it doesn't.

Our Personal Odyssey - Black sand, red canoe

2026-10-05

A double-decker bus out of El Salvador, then black sand, horses, a mangrove canoe at sunset and a turtle hatchery at Monterrico.

People & meetings

Review: Le Suisse Spa, Santa Lucía Milpas Altas — four nights in the hills above Antigua

2026-10-06

A real spa retreat with a front desk that would shame most five-star hotels, a room built for the mist, and a kitchen that is good when it cooks Guatemalan and ordinary when it doesn't.

Review: Le Suisse Spa, Santa Lucía Milpas Altas — ninety minutes with Lourdes

2026-10-05

A sports massage in the hills above Antigua that undid knots I had been carrying for twenty years.

All entries

Review: Le Suisse Spa, Santa Lucía Milpas Altas — four nights in the hills above Antigua

2026-10-06

A real spa retreat with a front desk that would shame most five-star hotels, a room built for the mist, and a kitchen that is good when it cooks Guatemalan and ordinary when it doesn't.

Review: Le Suisse Spa, Santa Lucía Milpas Altas — ninety minutes with Lourdes

2026-10-05

A sports massage in the hills above Antigua that undid knots I had been carrying for twenty years.

Our Personal Odyssey - Black sand, red canoe

2026-10-05

A double-decker bus out of El Salvador, then black sand, horses, a mangrove canoe at sunset and a turtle hatchery at Monterrico.

Honduras is ahead of us. Entries appear here once we cross the border.

Nicaragua is ahead of us. Entries appear here once we cross the border.

Costa Rica is ahead of us. Entries appear here once we cross the border.

Panama is ahead of us. Entries appear here once we cross the border.

Belize is ahead of us. Entries appear here once we cross the border.

Colombia is ahead of us. Entries appear here once we cross the border.

Notes from the road

Why this isn't just a dive directory

2026-07-25

The honest origin story in diving, and why the same audit criteria apply just as well to a stable, a boat charter, or a hiking guide.

What I actually check, and why

2026-07-25

How firefighting and construction supervision shaped the Vastura Travel audit criteria, and the honest limits of what a badge here means.

All entries

Why this isn't just a dive directory

2026-07-25

The honest origin story in diving, and why the same audit criteria apply just as well to a stable, a boat charter, or a hiking guide.

What I actually check, and why

2026-07-25

How firefighting and construction supervision shaped the Vastura Travel audit criteria, and the honest limits of what a badge here means.

What 'Verified' Should Mean on a Travel Listing Site

2026-07-23

Are travel review sites trustworthy? How OTA ranking really works, why star ratings aren't verification, and the Listed vs Verified distinction Vastura Travel uses.

Why Your Dive Shop's Website Is a Facebook Page (and What That Costs Them)

2026-07-17

Small business no website: why small dive shops and tour operators skip websites, what it costs them in bookings, and the minimal floor for being findable online.

Belize Barrier Reef: Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley, and What the Park Fees Pay For

2026-07-15

Hol Chan marine reserve fees explained: what's included, snorkel vs dive, seasonality, and the boat ride reality — researched ahead of a September 2026 visit to Belize.

Getting there and getting a bed

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